Brioche recipe by Dominique Crenn (2024)

Brioche recipe by Dominique Crenn (1)

Basque Culinary World Prize

29th April 2019

Basque Culinary World Prize

Like pumpernickel, brioche dates back to the fifteenth century, but unlike pumpernickel, brioche was a huge part of my childhood, in one form or another. Brioche may be baked into a variety of shapes, from brioche à tête, which is shaped like a fluted muffin topped with a smaller ball of dough, to Juan’s spiced brioche, which is baked in a loaf pan, to brioche feuilletée, which is laminated with layers of butter, like a croissant. In this recipe, the butter layering is optional, and therefore, the amount of time in the oven is variable. But as my friend and baking guide Mehdi Boudiab points out, home ovens are hardly ever calibrated correctly, so it is always important to watch for browning when making a recipe for the first time.

Whatever the form, the essence of brioche is its beautifully fluffy crumb, which makes it perfect for making dehydrated squid ink brioche in our Beef Carpaccio. We also serve slices of brioche and butter immediately before presenting our Lobster Bisque, so that guests have a chance to enjoy the brioche on its own terms before tasting it in relation to the soup.

Makes 36 muffin-size brioche or 3 full-size loaves

BRIOCHE is excerpted from ATELIER CRENN :copyright: 2015 by Dominique Crenn. Photography :copyright: 2015 by Ed Anderson. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.

Ingredients

  • 1 kilogram (8¾ cups plus 1½ tablespoons) pastry flour, plus more for dusting
  • 200 grams (7 ounces) unsalted butter, plus 300 grams (10.6 ounces) cold unsalted butter for layering, if desired
  • 150 grams (⅔ cup) beaten eggs (from 3 to 4 eggs)
  • 100 grams (½ cup) granulated sugar
  • 30 grams (2½ tablespoons) active dry yeast
  • 18 grams (1¼ tablespoons) fine sea salt, plus more for the egg wash
  • 2 whole eggs
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 60 grams (¼ cup) whole milk
  • Equipment
  • Stand mixer with dough hook attachment
  • Rolling pin (optional)
  • Brioche molds or loaf pans (optional)
  • Silicone basting brush
  • Wire rack

Method

One day before baking:
• TO MAKE THE LIQUID LEVAIN: In a large storage container, combine the pastry flour and 130 grams (½ cup plus 2½ teaspoons) water and mix well. Cover tightly and let sit in a warm place until approximately tripled in bulk, 16 to 27 hours.
The day of baking:
• Set 200 grams (7 ounces) of the butter aside at room temperature to soften.
• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the liquid levain with 200 grams (¾ cup plus 1½ tablespoons) water, the eggs, sugar, yeast, and fine sea salt. Mix on low speed for 5 minutes. Raise the mixer speed to medium and mix for 4 minutes. Add the 200 grams (7 ounces) of softened butter and mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
• Turn off the mixer and cover the bowl with a clean, dry towel. Let sit at 25°C/77°F for 30 minutes.
• TO LAMINATE THE DOUGH TO MAKE BRIOCHE FEUILLETÉE, IF DESIRED: On a lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to shape the dough into a ½-inch-thick square. Stretch a large piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface and place the remaining 300 grams (10.6 ounces) cold butter in the center. Cover the butter with a second layer of plastic wrap. Beat the butter with a rolling pin to flatten the butter. Use the rolling pin to roll the butter into a flat rectangle, as long as the dough on one side and half the size of the dough on the other. Unwrap the butter and place it on the dough in the center. Fold the ends of the dough over the butter so that they meet in a seam in the middle. Stretch the dough and fold again at the seam to make a double fold.
• Cover the dough (laminated or not) with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
• Butter 36 brioche molds (for brioche feuilletée or brioche à tête) or 3 loaf pans.
• TO SHAPE THE DOUGH FOR BRIOCHE FEUILLETÉE, IF DESIRED: Use a rolling pin to flatten the dough into a rectangle ½ inch thick. Cut the rectangle into 2-inch-wide strips and roll the strips into spirals. Place the spirals in the buttered brioche molds with the coil showing at the top. Alternatively, shape the dough into brioche croissants or any shape appropriate to laminated dough.
• TO SHAPE THE DOUGH FOR LOAVES: Split the dough into 3 equal balls. Split each ball into 8 round balls and arrange them in the buttered loaf pans in 2 x 4-ball grids.
• TO MAKE THE EGG WASH: In a medium bowl, beat the whole eggs and egg yolk. Add the milk and a pinch of salt.
• Use a silicone basting brush to wash the tops of the dough with the egg wash.
• TO PROOF: Cover the brioche molds or loaf pans with a damp kitchen towel and let sit at 26°C/81°F until risen, 2 to 2½ hours.
• Preheat the oven to 180°C/355°F.
• Bake until golden brown, watching closely to prevent burning, for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Allow the brioche to cool in the molds or loaf pans for 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and allow to cool to room temperature.

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FAQs

Why does brioche need to sit overnight? ›

Overnight Proof: By letting the dough rise slowly in a cold environment, it not only develops more depth of flavor, but also gives you more flexibility with the timing of baking the loaf. Cold brioche dough is also much easier to work with!

What type of flour is used for brioche? ›

Use good-quality flour with a high gluten content, ideally a fine pastry flour (T45 in France). Classic French brioche recipes use half as much egg and butter as flour. For 250g flour, for example, you will need 125g eggs and 125g butter.

What makes brioche bread different from other breads? ›

9. What makes brioche different to most breads? Brioche is different to most breads because it's made with an enriched dough and tastes a little sweeter. . Because it's an enriched dough, you get that famous brioche texture of soft bread, the classic golden colour and quintessentially rich taste.

Why is my brioche so dense? ›

Lack of gas and fermentation that makes the dough aerate results in dense and heavy bread. In these cases, it is either necessary to allow the dough to be proof longer or move it to the warmer room.

Do you have to proof brioche overnight? ›

Kneading with a stand mixer is highly recommended for brioche dough. Cold proof your dough: According to Martin, letting the dough proof in the fridge overnight provides extended fermentation time, which in turn develops more flavor.

Why add butter slowly to brioche? ›

The reason is that butter can inhibit gluten formation. It 'coats' the proteins that would form gluten. You knead the dough first to get gluten, and then add the butter afterward around the already formed gluten. You can add it earlier, you just end up with less gluten and a more tender dough.

Is brioche better with bread flour or all purpose flour? ›

Plain / all-purpose flour – An interesting fact is that Brioche is fluffier, rises better (about 15% taller) and has a softer crumb when made with plain / all-purpose flour rather than bread flour (ie. high protein flour).

Does brioche have to pass windowpane test? ›

You know that the brioche dough has been kneaded for long enough when: the dough does not stick to the bottom of your stand mixer bowl or bread machine anymore, the dough can be held on to your hand without sticking to them, and you can extend the dough to the point it becomes see-through (it's called the windowpane ...

What bread is most similar to brioche? ›

Challah bread is very similar to brioche, since it is made with eggs. It has a slightly sweet flavor and a soft, pillowy interior. Another substitute for brioche are croissants. Although these are not bread, but pastry, brioche is said to be more similar in texture to croissants than bread.

How do the French eat brioche? ›

Brioche is considered a bit like cake or cookies. It is sweet, therefore you eat it as a snack, for breakfast, with tea or coffee but rarely as dessert (unless the meal is perticularly light.)

What is in Pepperidge Farm brioche bread? ›

Made From: Enriched Wheat Flour (Flour, Niacin, Reduced Iron, Thiamine Mononitrate, Riboflavin, Folic Acid), Water, Sugar, Wheat Gluten, Butter, Yeast, Contains 2% Or Less Of: Nonfat Milk, Salt, Corn Flour, Calcium Propionate And Sorbic Acid To Extend Freshness, Monoglycerides, DATEM, Malted Barley Flour, Annatto And ...

Which is better challah or brioche? ›

Both breads are rich, eggy yeast breads, but brioche is definitely richer. (Butter will do that). Challah, by the way, is often a braided loaf. Both make excellent French toast and bread pudding.

Why does my brioche taste yeasty? ›

If the area is too warm, bread will rise too fast and begin cooking before the yeast has finished acting. This will impart a "yeasty" taste to the dough that will be transferred to the finished baked loaf. Using old ingredients (rancid nuts, "old" shortening) will cause yeast breads to taste old or have an "off" taste.

What happens if you put too much butter in brioche? ›

Too much butter will result in a very soft, sticky dough that's difficult to shape, and bakes up greasy and dense.

Can you overwork brioche dough? ›

So making brioche is a difficult recipe. I'm using a standalone mixer, because if you overwork it, then the brioche dough won't rise as much. So using a standalone mixer avoids putting too much force into it.

What is the purpose of allowing the dough to sit overnight? ›

The main reason for leaving dough to rest is to let the yeast do its job.

What happens if you don't refrigerate dough overnight? ›

Is it okay to leave bread dough out overnight? It will probably overproof and collapse. Put it in the fridge overnight instead and take it out the next day and it should be fine to continue with. Cover with oiled plastic wrap in a large bowl or any large lidded container.

Do you have to let bread dough sit overnight? ›

The proofing time for bread dough varies based on the dough's makeup (amount of preferment, flour choices, and hydration) and the temperature at which it's proofed. The dough should generally be proofed for around 1 to 4 hours at a warm temperature or overnight (or more) at a cold refrigerator temperature.

Why does brioche take so long to make? ›

Brioche has around 5 times as much butter as an average white bread recipe! Fat inhibits the formation of gluten which is formed when we knead dough which is required to make breads rise so they're soft and fluffy. So brioche dough is required to be kneaded for longer than usual to develop the gluten.

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